Private mortgage insurance protects your lender, not you, and you pay for it every month until you have enough equity to no longer need it. On a typical loan it can run anywhere from roughly $50 to a few hundred dollars a month — money that does nothing to build your equity or pay down your balance. The good news: PMI is temporary by law, and with a little attention you can stop paying it sooner than your lender will volunteer.
This guide is the practical companion to the basics in PMI explained. Here we focus on the removal side: the exact equity thresholds that matter, the difference between asking for cancellation and having it drop automatically, how a fresh appraisal can speed things up, and the cases where refinancing is the only way out. If you're tired of paying for coverage that benefits someone else, this is your roadmap.
First, know which kind of mortgage insurance you have
The rules for getting rid of mortgage insurance depend entirely on your loan type, so confirm this before anything else.
- Conventional loans (PMI): This is the cancelable kind. Federal law — the Homeowners Protection Act — gives you the right to request removal at 20% equity and forces automatic termination at 22%. Everything below applies to these loans.
- FHA loans (MIP): FHA's mortgage insurance premium follows different, stricter rules and usually can't be canceled the same way — on many FHA loans the only way to drop it is to refinance into a conventional loan. We cover that path at the end.
If you're not sure which you have, check your closing documents or call your servicer and ask point-blank whether your mortgage insurance is "PMI on a conventional loan" or "MIP on an FHA loan." The rest of this article assumes conventional PMI.
The two thresholds that matter: 80% and 78%
PMI removal is governed by your loan-to-value ratio (LTV) — your loan balance divided by the home's value. Equity is just the flip side: 20% equity means an 80% LTV.
At 80% LTV (20% equity), you can request cancellation. This is the borrower-initiated path. Once your balance drops to 80% of the original value of the home, you have the right to ask your servicer to cancel PMI. You have to make the request — nothing happens automatically here.
At 78% LTV (22% equity), the lender must cancel automatically. Under federal law, once your balance reaches 78% of the original value, the servicer is required to terminate PMI on its own, with no request from you, as long as you're current on payments. This is the backstop that guarantees PMI doesn't last forever.
A worked example. You bought a $400,000 home with 10% down, so you borrowed $360,000 (a 90% LTV) and got stuck with PMI. To reach the request threshold, you need your balance down to 80% of $400,000 = $320,000. To hit automatic termination, you need it at 78% = $312,000. On a normal amortization schedule that takes years — but as we'll see, you don't always have to wait that long.
Three ways to reach the threshold faster
You hit 20% equity through some combination of paying down the balance and the home gaining value. You can push on both.
1. Pay the balance down with extra principal
Every extra dollar toward principal moves you closer to 80% LTV. Even modest additional payments compound over time. Use the mortgage calculator to model an extra $200 or $300 a month against your principal and watch how many months it shaves off your road to 20% equity. The closer you are to the threshold already, the more dramatic a few targeted lump sums can be.
2. Use a new appraisal when your home has appreciated
Here's the move most homeowners miss. The automatic-termination rule is tied to the original value, but the request rule can often be based on the home's current value. If your home has risen in value, you may have 20% equity even though your balance hasn't fallen much.
Say that $400,000 home is now worth $470,000 and your balance is $345,000. Against the original price you're nowhere near 80%. Against today's value, your LTV is about 73% — well past the threshold. Most servicers will let you request PMI removal based on a current appraisal in this situation, though they typically require you to pay for a lender-approved appraisal (often a few hundred dollars) and may apply a higher equity bar (commonly 25%) if you've owned the home only a couple of years. Call and ask about their specific seasoning and equity requirements before you order anything.
3. Document improvements that added value
If you've made substantial improvements — a kitchen remodel, an addition — that raised the home's value, those can support a higher appraisal and a stronger case for early cancellation.
How to actually request cancellation
When you believe you've crossed 80% LTV, here's the sequence:
- Confirm your numbers. Check your current balance on your statement and estimate your LTV against either the original price (always allowed) or current value (if you're using appreciation).
- Call your servicer and ask for their PMI cancellation requirements in writing. Each servicer has a checklist: a good payment history (no recent late payments), the request in writing, and sometimes a current appraisal.
- Submit a written request. Most servicers require the request in writing, not just a phone call. Keep a copy.
- Pay for an appraisal if required. If you're relying on current value, the servicer orders an appraiser from their approved list and you cover the cost.
- Follow up. Servicers must respond within a reasonable time. If approved, confirm the exact month PMI stops and verify it disappears from your next statement.
The eligibility conditions usually include being current on the loan, having no second mortgage that pushes your combined LTV too high, and a clean recent payment record.
When refinancing is the better route
Sometimes a refinance is the cleanest — or only — way to shed mortgage insurance.
- You have an FHA loan. Since FHA MIP often can't be canceled directly, refinancing into a conventional loan once you have 20% equity removes it entirely. Just weigh the closing costs against the monthly savings.
- You'd get a better rate anyway. If market rates have fallen since you bought, refinancing can drop your rate and eliminate PMI in one move. Compare your current rate to today's 30-year fixed and 15-year fixed rates, and the overall rate environment, to see if it's worth it.
- Your servicer is dragging its feet on a current-value cancellation. A refinance establishes a brand-new loan at your current value, sidestepping the original-value rule entirely.
Refinancing isn't free, so run the break-even math first — if you'd pay $5,000 in closing costs to save $150 a month in PMI plus a little on rate, you want to know how many months it takes to come out ahead.
The bottom line
PMI is one of the few mortgage costs you can flat-out eliminate, often years before you'd guess. Watch two numbers: 80% LTV, where you can request removal, and 78%, where the lender must cancel automatically. If your home has appreciated, a current appraisal can get you there far ahead of schedule. Run your balance and a little extra principal through the calculator to see your timeline, then call your servicer and ask for their exact requirements. Canceling PMI is one of the highest-return phone calls a homeowner can make — it pays you back every single month.
Run the numbers for your own loan
See your monthly payment, total interest and a full amortization schedule — with taxes, insurance, PMI and HOA fees.
Keep reading
- PMI Explained: Cost of Private Mortgage Insurance and How to Cancel It · May 6, 2026
- How Much Down Payment Do You Really Need? · May 2, 2026
- Should You Refinance? A Break-Even Guide · May 26, 2026